Sayulita is the Riviera Nayarit’s crown jewel. But I’ll be the first to admit that the Sayulita I fell in love with a decade ago is long gone, replaced by the infinitely trendier and more bougie Sayulita of today. Whether you’re on the same page or you’re looking for a chill beach town in Mexico to explore away from the fray, San Pancho always delivers the throwback vibes and laid-back energy I crave.
San Pancho — short for San Francisco — is just a 10-minute drive up the road from Sayulita. Its tiny grid of streets is even more pocket-sized than Sayulita, though its sweeping swath of Pacific coastline is much bigger — and arguably more beautiful. You won’t find raucous bars or parties in San Pancho. The village swaps stylish boutiques for barefoot yogis and leathery surfers. That’s not to say there isn’t style in San Pancho: it has fantastic, low-key restaurants and a modest cocktail bar or two. But the energy here is decidedly dressed down, with lights out shortly after 10 p.m. and a soundtrack that is dominated not by DJs but by the waves.
When I want a little dose of beach paradise along the Riviera Nayarit, I turn to San Pancho, the quieter, cooler cousin just a bit up the road from Sayulita. Whether you’re a sun-seeker, taco lover or just in need of a break from the everyday, San Pancho is where you go to swap buzz for bliss.
Friday afternoon
Arrive in San Pancho and check into one of its many lovely boutique hotels. Whether you’re staying at the boho-chic Hotel Cielo Rojo, the treehouse jungle style of Agua de Luna or the ocean-view Ciye Hotel, Friday afternoon is the time to get settled and soak in the peaceful energy.
After checking in and getting settled, I like to head to Playa San Pancho for the first taste of town. The long, uninterrupted stretch of golden sand along Playa San Pancho is, in my opinion, more beautiful than the beaches in Sayulita — and a lot less crowded, too. Grab a spot on the sand and spot the surfers, or post up at one of the many casual beach bars and restaurants for people watching.
Friday evening
It doesn’t seem to matter what everyone has going on in their lives: everyone in San Pancho meets on the beach for sunset. While you could opt for upscale, design-forward cocktail bars in Sayulita, I prefer the simplicity of La Perla. This palapa-topped, toes-in-the-sand beach bar is the perfect no-frills local hang for a cold beer or margarita.
For dinner head over to Barracuda Cocina Del Mar for a delightfully fresh seafood experience. Most restaurants in San Pancho are extremely casual. Barracuda is as close to fine dining as the town gets, but even that is a stretch of a description. What are we ordering? Any of the tostadas are heavenly, but the Serrano tuna tostada is my favorite. You also can’t go wrong with the tacos or burritos.
Saturday morning
San Pancho is a haven for yogis and you’ll find many places to practice around town — even more if you hop over to Sayulita. In San Pancho, the most popular yoga studio is El Estar Yoga and Healing Center. The space sets the perfect mood for a therapeutic yoga session underneath a soaring palapa.
After yoga, head over to Maria Bonita for breakfast. Keep it light with omelets and fruit or dive into their fluffy pancakes. They can accommodate vegetarian, vegan and gluten-free diners, too.
While the crowds duke it out over the waves in Sayulita, you’ll find a little bit more space along Playa San Pancho. If you’re not new to surfing, you’ll find the winter season has the perfect waves for experts. The summer season — running from May to September — means softer waves, which are better for beginners and intermediate surfers. The area’s main surf spots are found along Playa San Pancho, La Lancha, El Faro, Burros and La Caleta. You can visit Santa Madre Adventures for surf lessons and gear rental.
Saturday afternoon
Lunch is on at Yasmina’s Itzalanyasayan, one of the funkiest, freshest and tastiest restaurants in San Pancho. The menu is vegan and full of deliciously colorful ingredients that will fill you up after a morning of surfing. Try the Pacha Mama Veggie Ceviche or the Mex Pad Thai. Their aguas frescas are incredible, too. After lunch, return back to the hotel for a dip in the pool, or head over to Angelical Spa for a massage.
Saturday evening
For dinner, keep it casual at Taquería Los Arbolitos, one of the most popular taco restaurants in town. Simple, affordable and no-frills, this is the spot to find seriously good tacos when the sun goes down.
Sunday morning
For your final morning in town, you have to head to San Pan for breakfast near the beach. This cafe has a feast-worthy menu of fluffy pancakes and omelets, green juice and excellent coffee. If you’re interested in brunch food, you can also get enchiladas, tostadas and salads. Or, you can keep it quick and pop over to The DoughJoe for a decadent doughnut or their awesome blueberry pancakes.
Before you hit the road, you can browse some of the smaller boutiques in town to find a souvenir, jewelry or clothing. Clavellina Collections is one of my favorites in town for their boho designs and funky, handmade jewelry: a little something to remember your time in one of the Mexican Pacific’s most beautiful — and underrated — beach towns.
Meagan Drillinger is a New York native who has spent the past 15 years traveling around and writing about Mexico. While she’s on the road for assignments most of the time, Puerto Vallarta is her home base. Follow her travels on Instagram at @drillinjourneys or through her blog at drillinjourneys.com.